Every once in a while, I may make a slight miscalculation when planting my roses. It can be the result of anything; from a lack of sunshine, to roses that were planted too close together, to a dry spot in the irrigation, or maybe its just a couple of colors that just simply don’t go together. The reality is that occasionally established roses need to be moved in the landscape. I’m going to share my (almost) fail safe method and give you a couple of pointers for trickier situations.
Far and away the best thing you can do to ensure success transplanting roses is to choose your timing wisely. Roses transplant best right before they break dormancy in the early spring. Here in Denver (zone 5) that is typically in early March, after our hardest freezes but before our gardens start waking up for the spring. This timeframe greatly reduces stress on your rose. Think of it as mirroring the process of planting bareroot roses. We want to avoid the depths of winter but have the plant in the ground in time to slowly emerge from dormancy as air and soil temperatures rise.
In the days before moving your rose, monitor the soil moisture around the plant. Hopefully your rose has received ample moisture over the winter months. Ideally you want the soil to be moist enough that it sticks together but not saturated. If the soil seems dry you can water the rose in the days prior to transplanting. If the soil is saturated or even still frozen, it may be a good sign to hold off for a little bit. Likewise, keep an eye on the weather forecast and choose a day with moderate temperatures. Again, we want to select our timing and conditions to limit potential stress on the plant.
Depending on the size of your rose, I suggest cutting the plant back to a “manageable” size. I always use the term manageable, because bigger is generally better for the quick establishment of the rose in it’s new home. To start with, I typically cut larger shrubs and climbers back to about 3 or 4 feet tall and wide. On smaller roses, I don’t cut them at all. This is definitely not a fool proof rule, and as the plant takes off in the spring, you may have to prune back dead plant material that the rose simply couldn’t support. I always err on the side of leaving more on the plant and monitoring if the plant is stressed. If the rose has trouble, you can always prune it back to a sustainable level.
Once the above ground part of your rose is at a manageable size, it is time to start digging the rose out. Again, your experience will vary greatly with the size of your plant and I use the term “manageable” again when it comes to digging the root ball out of the ground. I typically try to dig out at least a 2 to 3 foot diameter hole because it allows you to keep more of the plant’s roots undisturbed. Remember that your rose’s roots are working hard underground year round and while we are cutting and prying the roots from their home, we want to do so in as gentle a way as possible.
The actual digging is a bit of an art form. I would select your sharpest shovel, and begin by cutting a ring around the rose. Make sure your shovel is perpendicular to the ground. This allows for the cleanest possible cuts on the rose’s roots. After the first, make a second pass around the circle applying some lifting pressure, this will quickly let you know how firm your root ball will be. With luck, and with smaller roses, you will see the base of the rose come loose. You may need to make additional passes around the circle to pop the root ball loose. In the end, you may have to cut even more aggressively at a 45% angle to get under the rose completely. Do your best to maintain the root ball but know that, even with best efforts, sometimes the root ball will come apart.
Once the rose is free from it’s old location, it’s time to move the plant to it’s new home. Sometimes you can carefully pick the rose up and move it. More often you’ll need a little assistance. I like to lay a tarp out and slide the rose to it’s new location. At this point, I like to dig my new hole. The root ball really dictates what size hole you need and I like to see what I’m dealing with before I start digging. Create a hole about 6 inches wider and deeper that the root ball. This gives you a little space to amend the soil with compost and adjust how the rose sits in its new location. I like to plant the rose a couple of inches high relative to soil level to allow for settling. Use moderate pressure to fill in around the rose using care not to overly compact the area. Finish by watering the rose in thoroughly.
You will notice the one thing I didn’t mention was fertilizing. I personally advise against fertilizing any dormant transplanted rose. I understand that our gut reaction is to do everything we can to help the rose take hold. In this case less is more and a period of continued dormancy is ideal. So go ahead and just let the rose sit there. Later in the spring, your roses will tell you when they are ready for fertilizing. The sign is the emergence of new growth. Once the rose is showing signs of new growth go ahead and feed at half strength. By mid growing season your rose should be able handle a full dose of fertilizer.
So what happens when the root ball disintegrates when you are digging the rose out? While not ideal, it’s not the worst thing in the world. In fact, it gives you a good opportunity to examine the rose’s health from the roots up. Check the roots for any signs of disease or dryness. There’s a good chance that if your root ball fell apart, your soil may be dry. If the plant is dry you can soak the rose in a bucket of water for a few days prior to replanting. If the roots are moist and pliable, you can proceed to planting the rose in its new home. In this case, it helps to make a small cone of soil at the bottom of your hole to support the rose and to help the roots spread out. Plant the rose a little bit higher that the soil level to allow for settling and fill in using the same garden soil mixture with some compost in it. Water thoroughly and monitor soil moisture for the first couple of weeks.
What if you need to transplant in the summer? With the dormant method I’ve outlined, I would say my success rate is well over 90%. Transplanting in the summer is much less successful but it can be done. The reason summer transplanting is less successful is that during the growing season the rose is producing more tender growth that is susceptible to stress. The magic of transplanting while dormant is that rose is already reduced to older woody growth that can handle shocks to the system. The key during the summer months is making sure your rose is fully hydrated prior to moving it. I would recommend a deep watering of the rose at least twice before trying to dig. Try to do everything you can to reduce stress on the plant. Watch the weather to avoid excessive heat. I even try to dig a night so that the rose has a break from the heat of the day. After moving the rose, monitor the rose’s health and soil moisture. Be prepared for the rose to experience some wilting in the days following a summer transplant. The key here is to remain patient, let the rose adjust to it’s new home, and resist the urge to over love your plant.
Moving to a new home is always hard, but in the end, new surroundings might be exactly what your rose needs to flourish.
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to get in touch. We’re happy to help. 800-552-2082 or info@highcountryroses.com
Call Us
1-800-552-2082